Fujica STX-1N

This was another camera given to me by a friend to ‘clean-up’. He also gave me the Brownie I just posted about. He said the seals had rotted or sort of melted. Indeed they had and were smeared all over the rest of the camera.

The main issue was the seals around the focusing screen. They had totally disintegrated and to replace them was very tricky. I read it meant taking the top cover off to gain access, plus they didn’t actually effect the light tightness of the camera. So I cleaned off anything flaking just to avoid any further mess, but it looked like someone had tried before me. The focusing screen was in quite a state. Against a bright light it was hard to see through, but with regular light it wasn’t so bad and could still be used effectively.

In those photos, you can see the + and – for the simple light meter. That seemed to work as it should with the LR44 batteries inserted. I continued replacing the seals around the door hinge and back door.

I replaced the hinge ones with foam and the door with wool. It made the door a bit stiff to open, but I hoped that would become easier with use. The last one was the mirror dampener which was also foam. At least the lens was in fairly clean. The rubber around the lens had fallen off, I replaced that with foam too, just to make it more pleasant to hold and to give a better grip.

Then I loaded some expired Kodak RAR to test whether it was light tight. I took a few shots and developed the film in caffenol with the RAR from the brownie.

Here are a few of the results.

They are incredibly grainy, but I could tell they were light tight and the focusing seals didn’t affect the results.

That meant moving on to using a better film, this time a half roll of Exeter Pan 100. I took the set up to the War Horse at Mill Pond Meadow in Featherstone.

This camera from 1982 has speeds up to 1/700th, a self timer, an uncoupled TTL meter which I have mentioned, and a shutter lock. That’s it really. The camera works mechanically so if the meter doesn’t work it won’t be an issue. The main issue if you are buying one are the seals and smearing.

Here are the results from the second test. I didn’t have any trouble focusing through the damaged screen.

What a lovely set of photos. The War Horse is a marvelous sculpture in a rather odd place. You can park in the adjoining rugby grounds and walk to it, but it does seem to be in the middle of nowhere. It is so lovely it needs a more dramatic setting, hopefully the grounds will grow around it.

As for the camera, it is a lovely, a sturdy SLR from the 80s. They are fairly cheap and seal kits can be found online cheaply. I will be giving this one back to the owner, along with the Brownie. I won’t miss either of them, but I was very happy to try them.

6 thoughts on “Fujica STX-1N

  1. Peggy says:

    Thanks for the link. I did find it while writing the post but the film wasn’t on it. Still a useful link. Unfortunately, you also have to develop the film to get the rebate number 😀

    1. rogerbeal47 says:

      Once in a while a vintage sealed Kodak box shows up with the catalog number printed on it. I have some “Traffic Recording Film” which is virtually unknown to the photo blog world – one writer said it was in range of ISO 3200, another said more like ISO 3. As such, the stuff is still sitting waiting for me to work up the courage to shoot it – maybe with widely-bracketed exposures, and Rodinal stand development.

      1. Peggy says:

        I have some similar ilford stuff that I am waiting for clear, dry weather to shoot. I have sacrificed a couple of rolls to figure out the development and asa. It looks a bit like lithograph depending on how I develop it.

  2. Toby says:

    I the focus screen damage just smearing, rather than scratches?Does the focusing screen come out?
    Is it glass rather than plastic.
    If removeble and glass I’ve had success cleaning similarly, possibly worse smeared screen from a pentax. First with naptha with cotton buds and a soft toothbrush to remove goo then of all things Mr muscle spray oven cleaner to get all the naptha off. Followed by a nice new lens cloth. Couldn’t tell it ever had a problem.
    Not my own remedy idea but can’t recall where I heard about this method

    1. Peggy says:

      Unfortunately, it doesn’t come out without dismantling it. I tried naphtha and it did improve it some. I have some Mr Muscle so I might try that, can’t possibly make it worse.

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